Iceland: Magic moments
Magic moments in Iceland
Watching fumaroles from the tent and seeing Strokkur spout as we picked plump blueberries above Geysir.
Finding myself announcing to a bus load of people that the bus had just broken down and we were stuck (the driver had told me after I was the only one to follow him outside to see where the smoke was coming from).
Taking off – literally, all four wheels of a full size bus, three times when the driver of the replacement bus completely overdid it on a very, very bumpy stretch of “road” across a lava field. The look on his face was quite something.
Sitting in a naturally hot stream, looking out at the mountains sipping Macallan Elegancia from a Platybottle.
Sharing samples of dried food with other hikers in a hut as the snow billowed outside.
Waking at dawn to find the clouds breaking across snow covered mountains with steaming fumaroles hissing all around.
Topping-out a ridge, above a wild-camp, to get a stunning view of by far the largest glacier that any of us had ever seen. There was far more of it visible from our vantage point than there was from the main trail.
Watching clouds roll across the lime-green, moss covered black peaks all around us from the same ridge and feeling like it was a set from Lord of the Rings.
Sharing a quick nip of the Macallan after crossing a freezing, rushing, dark, silty river in the pouring rain.
Watching an arctic fox, in its summer coat but with a white brush, pick its way up a steep, 10 meter high bank, knocking stones back into the glacier fed river that we were about to cross.
Seeing the first trees we’d laid eyes on for seven days. It was oddly wonderful. I’d missed them far more than I had expected or realised. We all found ourselves grinning at them.
Coming down the path next to Skógafoss as it thundered its way down beside us.
Sitting in a camp site at the foot of Skógafoss, at the end of the walk, sharing Harðfiskur and whiskey with a French father and son who’d just walked the North to South, finishing along our route. They were inspiring. It made me wonder about doing the same.
Pictures next…

October 27th, 2008 at 14:54
Magic indeed. Looking forward to more pictures and reports.
October 27th, 2008 at 19:44
Thanks Martin – now that I’ve managed to get the damn character set correct in the underlying database of this blog – photos you shall get!
How anyone maintains a blog without being “technical” in a computery way…
December 11th, 2008 at 17:44
Lovely. I must admit to being more tempted by Norway than Iceland (yet to leave the UK for walking.).
Still I do have a real weakness for waterfalls and every time I see a photo of Skógafoss….
December 11th, 2008 at 19:04
Yet to leave the UK for walking? You have some treats!
I love the UK for walking. Well okay I suppose I mainly love Scotland for walking but those hills are about as far away from us in Brighton as you can get and still be in the UK.
One thing – don’t start with the Haute Route. It’s too good to start on. That should be built up to a little.
The TMB though – oh yes…
December 11th, 2008 at 20:47
Well I’ve not even been north of the border for far too long – which I’m certainly going to be doing something about first….
More into GR5 on paper actually. Mind you the apennine way has a temptingly ironic name :)
December 12th, 2008 at 16:26
No I must admit that although I love Scotland I’m lucky to get more than one trip a year myself.
The Apennine Way (I assume that link describes the right thing?) sounds very good – I’ve not heard of it before. I see what you mean re. the name…
December 12th, 2008 at 23:26
Right hills I think.
I was remembering the walk from a Cicerone guidebook I’ve seen – http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/416.
I seem to have been a little mistaken as to the name: it’s The Grande Escursione Appenninica.
Whatever it’s called it does look pretty good :)